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N0. 425,539." Patented Apr. 15, 1890.

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SEWING MAGHINE.

Patented Apr. 15, 1890.

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P. A. DARRACQ.

SEWING MACHINE.

No. 425,539. Patented Apr. 15, 1890.

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SEWING MACHINE. No. 425,539. Patented Apr. 15, 1890.

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UNITED STATES PATENT rrrcn.

PIERRE ALEXANDRE DARRACQ, OF LE PRF. ST. GERVAIS, FRANCE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 425,539, dated April 15, 1890.

Application filed January 24., 1889. Serial No. 297,404. (No model.) Patented in France October 8, 1888, No. 193,383; in England November 3, 1888, No. 15,905, and in Switzerland March 2, 1889, No. 529.

manufacture of corsets, the object of which isto secure the ends of the whalebone or stays, and the invention consists, essentially, in an arr. ngement of mechanism for displacing the head of the machine forproducing the longitudinal stitches and the corset in a transverse direction either to the right or to the left in such a manner that the needle descends at suitable places to produce the peculiar fan'- like arrangement of stitches instead I of displacing the corset only in both directions.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 represents the fan-like arrangement of the stitches produced from the left to right; and Fig. 1 is a similar view, the stitches being produced-from the right to the left. Figs. 2 and 2 joined at the lines Y Y, represent a side elevation of the machine partly in section. Fig. 3 is a plan of the head of themachine and the presser-feet, all other parts being removed. Figs. stand 4, joined together at the lines Y Y represent a plan of the under side of the machine, part of the head being removed. Figs. 5 and 5", joined together at the lines Y Y represent a projection or developed view of the driving camwheel. Fig. 6 is a vertical section of the machine on lines X X and X Xof Figs. 2 and 2 looking toward the front of the machine. Fig. 7 is a front elevation of the machine. Fig. 8 represents a special arrangement for starting the machine. 9 is a side elevation of the mechanism for changing the direction of rotation of the feed-wheels. Fig.

10 is a perspective view of the sector, eccentric, and a portion of the disk.

In Figs. 1 and 1, a represents the end of the whalebone or stay confined by the fanlike stitches from left to right in Fig. 1 and from right to left in Fig. 1 The corset is placed in position on the machine, and when the machine is started the needle will make two stitches 0.00 in the same place, so as to lock each other and thus form a strong beginning. The corset is then displaced transversely to make stitch 1 of the fan. After this the head of the machine is displaced without moving the corset for making stitch No. 2. The corset is then displaced laterally a distance equal to the thickness of the thread and the sewing mechanism correspondingly in the longitudinal sense for mak ing stitch 3. The head of the machine is then displaced again for making stitch 4., and so on until the fan is finished, when the corset is once more displaced laterally to make a double interlocking stitch 25 26, the same as was made at the beginning. The machinery that I have constructed has therefore to displace the corset in one direction and the sewing parts of the machine in another direction. Moreover, the longitu d inaldisplacement must vary constantly in length to a considerable extent, the greatest displacement being between the first two stitches of the fan and the smallest between the lasttwo stitches. Moreover, the stitches which are parallel to the edge of the whalebone or stay have to be in a straight line, while those confining the end of the whalebone or stay have to be arranged in the are of a circle or in a form corresponding with said end. Lastly, the machine is to stop automatically as soon as the fan is completed.

The machine comprises, essentially, all parts of an ordinary sewing-machine, and in addition special mechanical arrangements for the automatic displacement of the corset and the sewing parts of the machine and for the stopping of the machine when the fan is completed.

The horizontal displacement of the head A of the machine is effected by means of a camwheel S, which also regulates the amplitude of the stitches. To this end thehead A of the machine oscillates horizontally between the centers a a of a vertical stirrup-piece 13, fixed to the frame 0, between the vertical sides of which are mounted all the various parts of the mechanism.

The shaft D, which operates the sewing parts of the machine, is, by means of a link and two knuckle-joints M M or the equivalents thereof, attached to the shaft L, from which it receives its movement, thus permitting the shaft D to follow the horizontal displacement of the head of the machine. On the shaft L is mounted a pitch-wheel N, receiving its motion from a pitch-chain. This wheel N is mounted loosely,but can be engaged with and transmit motion to the shaft L by means of the clutch-coupling O, which is ca pable of beingmoved longitudinally on the shaft L, but always turns with it. A spiral spring P, interposed between the clutch-coupling and a collar Q on the shaft L, tends to hold the coupling in engagement with the clutch-face of the wheel N. The shaft L is mounted in the journals R R, forming part of the frame 0 of the machine.

The. horizontal displacement of the head of the machine is produced by means of the camwheel S, the cam-groove of which is represented in projection or developed view in Figs. and 5 The horizontal shaft U of the said cam-wheel is supported in a downwardly-projecting arm V of the frame of the machine. The cam-wheel S carries on its face a bevel-wheel V, gearing with the bevelpinion V, to which motion is transmitted from the shaft L by means of the miter-wheel X, fixed on the shaft L and gearing with the miter-wheel 1 mounted on the shaft L, the bevel-wheel X", mounted on the same shaft and *earin with a bevel-wheel X mounted on the shaft L, which carries at its lower end the pinion V, as shown in Fig. 4 A roller 1, mounted on the end of a lever 2, the pivot 3 of which is adjustable, is guided in the cam-groove 4 of the cam-wheel S, the sinuosities of which cam-groove correspond with the desired displacements of the head of the machine. The pivot 3 of the lever 2 can be placed in either of the two holes 3', formed in the base of the stirrup-piece B, the end of the .lever 2 opposite to that carrying the roller 1 being attached to the bottom part 5 of the head of the machine. Thus the horizontal movements of the roller 1, followingthe sinuositiesof the cam-groove 1, are transmitted to the head of the machine. Thus it will be seen that the so-called longitudinal stitches are regulated by the revolution of the camwheel S without the corset itself being moved in any way. I

To produce the so called transverse stitches of the fan, the corset itself is displaced in a transverse sense under the influence of carriers or feed-wheels arranged underneath the presser-feet. Two arms or standards 6 6 of about the same contour as the head of I the machine are fixed one to each of the tops of zontally. Each of the arms or standards 6 6 is provided with a presser-foot bar andpresser-foot 7 7 Fig. 7, arranged to work in. the usual manner. Underneath 'each of these presser-feet 7 7 is a circular serrated'carrier or feed-wheel 8 8, mounted, respectively, on the shafts 9 9, which transmit their movementto the wheelsS 8 for the displacement of the corset in a direction transverse to the fan to be formed. To this endthe gear-wheels 1O 10 are secured on the shafts 9 9', and receive their movement from the corresponding gear-wheels 11 11', fixed on the shaft 12, journaled in the supports 13 13', mounted on the shafts 9 9. On each side of the gear-wheel 11 one of the supports 14: 14 is mounted on the shaft 12. These supports carry at their lower ends a shaft 15, on which is mounted looselya gear-wheel16 in the same vertical plane as the wheels 10 and 11. The shaft 15 is attached to a lever 17, pivoted at 18, and adapted to be adjusted to two different positions by means of the spring-button 19, which it carries at its end, and which may be engaged with either of the openings or 21, formed in the indicator 22. Movement is transmitted to the wheels 10 11 16 by means of a pinion 23, mounted on a shaft 24:,Figs. 1 and 9, journaled in one side of the frame, and a support 25,at tached to the said frame.

As represented in Fig. 2, the pinion 23operates the wheel 10 through the wheel 11,

which is always in gear with the wheel 16, which in this case turns loosely on its shaft.

It follows, therefore, that when the pinion 23' spring-button 19 in the opening 20 of theindicator 22. r If the lever 17 be turned on-its pivot 18, so that the spring-button 19 would engage with the opening 21-of the indicator 22, it would follow by the arrangement-of the supports and lever 13 141'7tha-t .theangle 'IIO formed by the supports 13 14 would become more acute, while that formed by the support 14 and lever 17 would become more obtuse, and consequently the wheel 11, although always gearing with the wheels 10 and 16, would be thrown out of gear with the pinion 23, while the wheel 16 would be thrown into gear therewith and thus would transmit motion to the wheel 10 by means of the wheel 11. The wheel 10 would therefore turn in the opposite direction, because, the rotation of the pinion 23 being always in the direction of the arrow 26, the wheel 16 will turn in the direction of the arrow 27, the wheel 11 in that of the arrow 27, and 10 in that of 27 The two, wheels 11 11' being both secured on the same shaft 12, their movement will be transmitted to the wheelslO 10', and'through these to the feed wheels or carriers 8 8.

From the, preceding explanation it will'be understood that the feed-wheels 8 8 can be made to revolve to the right or theleft, ac-

cording to the desired displacement of the corset to the right or the leftyby the adjust.

ment of the pivoted lever 17.

The pinion 23 receives its motion in the following manner: On the shaft 24 of this pinion 23 is mounted a disk 28, formed on its face with a recess 29, in the interior of which engages a sector 30, operating by friction on the wall of said recess. This sector is mounted loosely on the eccentric socket 30 of the lever 31, pivoted on the shaft 24. This lever is connected to the lever 32 by means of slots and bolt and nut 36, the lever 32 being pivoted to the side of the frame at 33. The oscillation of the lever 32 is produced by means of a cam-wheel 34, the cam-groove of which open ates on a roller 35, carried on the said lever. The point of connection between two levers 31 32 is adjustable by means of thebolt and nut The oscillation of the lever 32, produced by means of the cam 3-1, is'transmitted to the lever 31, which, by means of the eccentric socket 30 and through the medium of the clutch-sector 30, operates the disk 28. The moving of thesector 30 is elfected as follows: The lever 31, moving from its lower to itshigher position, forces the sector 30, by means of the eccentric socket 31, against the outer wall of the recess 29 of the disk 28, forming a clutch. The upward movement of the lever 31 continuing, the sector 30 will force the disk 28 to turn from right to left, and this rotary movement will continue until the lever 31 has attained its highestpoint. During the downward movement of the said lever the sector is drawn back or prevented frombinding by a suitable spring 29 until the next upward movement of the lever commences. The disk 28 is prevented from following the return movement of the sector and lever and from moving freely in either direction by means of the friction-brake 2S engaging its periphery, as shown in Fig. 2.

The manner of adjusting the combined length of the levers 31 32 by means of the bolt and nut 36 permits of the amplitude of the oscillation of the lever 31 being regulated, and consequently provides for the necessary regulation of the rotary movement of the disk 28 and that of the feed-wheels 8 Sby means of the above-described intermediate gearing. The cam 34 is mounted on the shaft 36, on which is also mounted abevel-wheel 37, gearing with a bevel-pinion 38, mounted on an inclined shaft 39, carrying at its other end the bevelpinion 4.0, gearing with the bevel-pinion 41, mounted on the shaft L, which receives its rotary motion as before described.

It has herein been previously explained that as soon as the last double stitch 25 26 of the fan has been made the machine stops automatically. This automatic stopping is effected by the following, arrangement: The

principal cam-wheel S is provided with a spring-button S, to which is fixed a pin S, which, when the cam-wheel has completed its revolution-i. e., when the fan is finished comes in contact with the end of a lever T, pivoted at T and extending above this pivot. This upward extension of the lever T bears against an arm U, mounted on the shaft T, which carries the uncoupling-fork V',which, turning with said shaft from right to left, immediately disengages the clutch-sleeve 0 from the wheel N and instantly stops the machine. To start the machine again it is only necessary to draw forward the pin S by the springbutton S, when, the said pin ceasing to bear against the lever T, it (the lever T) will immediately return to its normal position under the influence of the spring P, which also again throws the coupling-sleeve 0 into engagement with the clutch-face on the wheel N, thus turning the fork V with the shaft U" and the arm U, which latter returns the lever T to its normal position. This opera tion of starting the machine, instead of be 'ing done by drawing the spring-button S forward by hand, may be done by a simple movement of the knee, which arrangement is represented in Fig. 8, and has the advantage of leaving the hands entirely free for the maintaining and guiding of the corset on the machine. This arrangement consists of a lever 50, pivoted at about its middle at 51 to a bracket or projection 52 'on the frame 0 of the machine. One end 50 of this lever is bent inward toward the cam-wheel S, the extreme end of it standing exactly opposite the pin S when the latter has pressed the lever T aside and thus stopped the machine. The other end of the lever 50 is pivoted to a bellcrank lever 53 54:, pivoted at 55 to a bracket or projection on the frame G of the machine. The arm 54 of the bell-crank extends to the front of the machine,-where it is provided with a plate 56, against which the knee of the operator is pressed when it is desired to start the machine. A suitable spring 5'7 returns the lever 54: to its normal position.

It is evident that a pressure on the plate 56 will have the same effect as the drawing forward by hand of the spring-button S, as the end 50 of the lever 50 will push the pin S" as soon as the lever 5-1 is pressed aside by the knee of the operator.

The shuttle-carrier E, which acts in combination with the needle K, is operated by the shaft D and receives a differential intermittent movementwith reference to the said shaft D. The object of this differential intermittent movement is to seize the needle-thread sharply and to pass it rapidly around the shuttle and then to give time to the needle and to the tension device to draw the thread and to displace themselves in the longitudinal sense for the next longitudinal stitch. To this end the shuttle-carrier E is mounted on a small spindle E, journaled in the support E. The said spindle E extends beyond the support E and carries on its extreme end a pinion F.,

D is mounted a disk F, formed with a recess in its face, part of the wall G of which recess ILO ITO

On the forward end of the shaft is provided with teeth G", which, gearing with the pinion F, extending into the recess, turns thispinion, and with it the shuttle-carrier E. The rotary movement of the pinion F of course ceases as soon as the last tooth of the sector G" has passed it, and the said pinion remains stationary, until the teeth engage again with it duringv the next revolution of thedisk F". v

The, feeding of the thread, as-in the-ordinary machines, is effected by means of the.

tension and take-up devices H H", the latter. being operated by the cam-wheel H ,mounted on the shaft D.

I claim.

1. In a sewing-machine for corsets, the combination, with head A, of a cam-wheel S, having a cam-groove 4, a horizontal lever 2, working on an adjustable pivot 3 and connected to the head A so as to impart to it oscillating motion, a stirrup-piece, such as B, and a pinion V", gearing with a bevel-wheel V, the said.

, mounted on the shaft 24, on which is also mounted the recessed disk 28, in the recess of which engages the eccentric sector 30,

a which rotates the said disk, the sector being operated by the jointed lever 31 32, the combined length of whichis adjustable, and which receives its motion from the wheels and pinions 37, 38, 40, 41, X, and X, substantially as and operating in the manner herein described, and illustrated in the accompany ing drawings.

3. In a sewing-machine for corsets, the combination, with the feed-wheels 8 8', of a pinion 23, operated by a disk, wheels 10, 10, 11, and 16, shaft 15, supports 13, 14, and 14', lever 17, spring-button 19, and indicator 22, with holes or 21, substantially as herein shown and described.

4. In a sewing-machine for corsets, the combination, with a laterally-movable head carrying the needle, thread-hook, and stitch-forming mechanism, of feed-wheels having avariable movement for feeding the corset at right angles to the line of movement of the head, whereby the distance between the stitches formed by said head movement may be increased. or diminished, substantially as described.

5. In a sewing-machine for corsets, the combination, with the laterally-movable head, and

the needle, thread-hook, and stitchforming,

mechanism mounted thereon, and the feeders; of a cam or equivalent device for shifting the head laterally and connections between said cam .and feeders geared: to move the feeders between alternate reciprocations of the needle, whereby the long or-alternate stitches may be formed parallel, substantially as de-- scribed.

6. In a sewing-machine forcorsets, the combination, with the laterally-movable head, the. needle, threadhook, and stitch-forming 'mechanism mounted thereon, and the feed- Wheels, ofa cam for shifting the head 1ater ally, connections between said cam and feedwheels, and a cam interposed in said connections for moving the feed-wheels betweenalternate reciprocations of the'needle, substantially as described.

7 In a sewing-machine for corsets, the combination, with the laterally-movable head car? rying the needle and complemental stitchforming mechanism, of the reversiblefeeders for feeding the material in either direction atright angles to :the line of movement of the I head, substantially as described.

8. In a sewing-machine forcorsets, the combination, with the laterally-movable head carrying the needle and complemental stitchforming mechanism, of the feed-wheels, a driving mechanism therefor, and a reversinggear interposed between the driving mechanism and -feed-wheels,-whereby the direction of feed may be reversed, substantially as de-.

, scribed.

9. In asewing-machine for corsets, the combination, with the laterally-movable head carrying the needle and complemental stitchforming mechanism, of thefe'e'd-wheels, a pin ion moved by the driving mechanism, a gearwheel connected to the feed-wheels, and twoto the desired lateraldisplacement of the,

head, whereby stitches of varying design may be formed,and an arm connected to the head and guided in said groove, substantially as described.

11. In a sewingmachine for corsets, the-com: bination, with the laterally-movable head pivoted on a fixed center and carrying the needle-' bobbins and threadhook,-a rotary cam having.

a sinuous surface, and an arm connected to the head and guided by said cam, of a shaft for driving the needle and hook, havinga universal coupling therein, wherebythelateral movementof the head is permitted, substantially as'described.

12. In a sewing-machine for corsets,the combination, with the laterally-movablehead car- ICC surface conforming to desired displacement of the head or the figure to be formed, of a driving mechanism, a clutch for throwing the same into engagement, and a stop on the cam for throwing the clutch out of gear upon the completion of a figure, substantially as described,

13. In a sewing-machine for corsets, the combination, with the laterally-movable head pivoted in vertical bearings to swing horizontally and carrying the stitch-formin g mechanism, the feeders, and a cam for shifting the head laterally, of an arm connected to the head,pivoted on an adjustable center, and engaging the cam, substantially as described.

14. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with the feed-wheels, of a disk or equivalent connected thereto, a clutch engaging said. disk,

a lever connected to said clutch, a pivot-ed lever operated by the drive mechanism, and an adjustable connection between said levers whereby the rate of feed may be varied, substantially as described.

15. In a sewing-machine,-the combination,

with the feed-wheels, of a disk or equivalent connected thereto, a lever connected to said clutch, a lever pivoted on a fixed center and connected to the first lever by an adjustable connection, and a cam for moving said levers, substantially as described.

16. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with the laterally-movable head pivoted on a fixed center and carrying the needle, thread hook, and stitch-forming mechanism, of the feed-wheels, and a rotary cam for shifting said head laterally, having its cam-surface conforming to the desired displacement or figure to be formed, and having a straight portion at the beginning and end, whereby more than one stitch is formed at said points to lock the same, substantially as described.

17. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with the laterally-movable head carrying the needle, thread-hook, and stitch-forming mechanism, of a cam for shifting said head laterally, having its cam-surface conforming to the desired displacement or figure to be formed, and having a straight portion at the beginning and end of its cam-surface, whereby the head remains stationary during two strokes of the needle, and feeders connected to said cam and geared to feed only between alternate strokes of the needle, whereby the stitch may be locked by two strokes of the needle in the same place, substantially as de scribed.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto subscribed my hand in the presence of the two subscribing witnesses,

PIERRE ALEXANDRE DARRACQ, 

